Date: Tue, 09 Nov 93 09:01:18 EST From: Christina Hulbe What follows is some of what I know about mole, learned from a variety of sources. The framework for the Mole Poblano recipe written below came from _Sunset Magazine_, March 1992. There are volumes more which can be written but I have again run out of time. You'll probably get sick of reading too ;) In any case, I hope you do experiment with mole, it is a long process but oh, so worth the effort. Mole Essentials The word mole is derived from the word mulli, of the pre- Columbian Nahuatl culture in Mexico and translates as "mixture". While there are as many mixtures as there are mole makers, the Mexican state of Oaxaca is famous for seven distinct combinations sometimes called the Seven Sisters. Mole ingredients can be divided into four basic groups (1) chiles, usually dried but sometimes fresh (2) roasted vegetables, (3) thickeners, and (4) seasonings. Each group is prepared individually and then mixed together and simmered to unite the flavors. Authentic moles include large amounts of turkey or duck fat and roasted nuts. They have been omitted here to be in line with fatfree cooking. Roasting many of the ingredients adds depth and richness without the fat. The "Mole Poblano" described below was created in Puebla, a city southeast of Mexico City. It has an unusually detailed story, although the timing varies from teller to teller. In the version I learned, the inventor is a nun at Santa Rosa Convent. The Mother Superior requested, on short notice, a new special dish for visiting dignitaries. Because there was so little time, she could use only those ingredients on hand. The Mole Poblano began with ingredients from the standard four groups. What makes it special the final divine inspiration, chocolate stirred in as a finishing touch. Chocolate was a royal and expensive ingredient, quite appropriate for a special occasion. While you can omit it, the mole will not have the same sophisticated and mellow flavor. (Anyway, the final grams of fat per serving is still very small, if you use 2 oz of semi-sweet chocolate, there will be about 2 grams of fat per cup of sauce. You could use several Tbsp of Dutched cocoa, dissolved in boiling water, to reduce the fat.) The guests were so delighted with the meal that they had the kitchen redecorated with beautiful new tiles. This was a new and rare luxury in the Americas. I think the convent and kitchen can be visited if you are lucky enough to travel to Puebla. The mole is as important as the food served in it. Traditionally, a cup or more is served with a mild, white meat. I like to serve roasted sliced eggplant and whole mushrooms, topped with rings of crisp white onion with the mole. Tempeh, simmered in seasoned vegetable stock, would be good as well. So, to the cooking. You will need some rimmed baking pans for oven roasting, a 10" non-stick skillet for rapid dry-frying, a large bowl for soaking the chiles, a food processor or blender, and a 5 or 6 quart saucepan for the final simmer. (1) Roasting Dried Chiles 16 mulato chiles (a type of dried poblano, 4 or 5" long and 2" across with rounded shoulders and a gentle taper to a point, they are chocolate brown and have a mildly smoky flavor) 8 ancho chiles (another type of poblano, 4 or 5" long, 3" across at the shoulders, they are brick to dark red and fruity) 3 pasilla chiles (dried chilaca chilies, they are slender, 5 or 6" long and 1 or 1-1/2" across, dark brown, and have a berry, herby flavor) 1 chipolte chile (dried, smoked jalapeno chiles, coffee brown with veins and ridges, they are smoky and sweet) The first three are sometimes called the "holy trinity", the traditional base of most moles. Lay dried chiles in a single layer in baking pans, lined with foil or parchment (for easy clean-up). Bake in a 300 degree F oven until the chiles are flexible and smell lightly toasted, be careful not to burn or they will become bitter. While still warm, remove the stems and shake the seeds out of the chiles. Put the chiles in a large bowl and cover with 8 cups of boiling water. Let stand until soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, saving the liquid. Puree the chiles in a food processor or blender, a portion at a time, adding saved soaking liquid (up to 2 cups) as needed to keep the mixture moving. The puree can be stored, refrigerated, for a day or two. (2) Roasting Vegetables 2 large onions (about 1 lb), quartered 2 large tomatoes (about 1 lb) 1/2 lb tomatillos, husked and rinsed 1 medium head of garlic 3 corn tortillas (this is really a thickener but should be roasted so its included here) While the chiles are roasting, assemble the vegetables. When the chiles are done, put the vegetables in the pan, increase the heat to 450 degrees F and return the pan to the oven. Bake for 10 minutes, turn the vegetables, bake for another ten, turn, and repeat until the vegetables and tortillas have browned spots and edges. Let the vegetables cool and remove skins. Break each tortilla into 5 or six pieces and place them in a food processor with the peeled vegetables and puree, adding some of the chile soaking liquid to help start the mixture moving. This can be stored for a day or two as well. For the most sophisticated mole, rub both purees through a fine strainer and discard the residue. (3) Thickeners 1 small ripe plantain (the skin will be black) (1/2 lb) 1/2 cup chopped pitted prunes 1/2 cup raisins Peel and slice the plantain. The easiest way to peel a plantain is to score the skin, down to the flesh, in three evenly spaced lines, end to end, chop off the ends of the plantain, and peel off the skin. Add the plantain to a non-stick skillet over medium heat. Dry-fry, without stirring, until the plantain begins to brown, turn plantain slices and brown the other side. Add the prunes, raisins, and 2 Tbsp water. Cook, stirring, until water evaporates. Repeat with 2 more Tbsp water. Remove from pan. Clean the pan to use in the next step. Authentic Moles Poblano also uses roasted almonds and peanuts as thickeners. (4) Seasonings 3 sticks cinnamon, broken into large pieces 2 tsp coriander seed 2 tsp anise seed Heat a non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add seasonings and toast, shaking the pan frequently, until they are lightly toasted and fragrant. Puree together the thickeners and seasonings, using 1 cup of the chile soaking liquid. The authentic Mole Poblano also uses toasted sesame seed. Seasonings used in other moles include cloves, allspice, cumin, bay, oregano, thyme, and marjoram. Cumin and oregano also benefit from toasting. (5) The final assembly. remaining chile soaking liquid 1 or 2 cups light vegetable broth, as needed to thin 2 oz semi-sweet chocolate (Mexican, with cinnamon in it, is best) or 3 Tbsp cocoa powder (Dutched) mixed with 1/4 cup boiling water In a heavy 5 or 6 quart sauce pan mix together ingredients from the first 4 groups. Stir in the rest of the chile soaking liquid and enough broth to make a thickly pourable sauce. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, reduce heat, cover, and simmer to blend the flavors, 1-1/2 or 2 hours, stirring often. It the mixture gets too thick, thin with more stock. Just before serving, chop the chocolate and mix with the mole until melted. This should make about 10 cups, 5 or 10 servings. Serving the mole: Pour the mole over roasted vegetables or tempeh in individual wide bowls or a wide shallow serving dish and top with thin rings of white onion and fresh cilantro leaves. Offer lime wedges and corn or fatfree flour tortillas to sop up the sauce. I have successfully refrigerated mole for up to a week and stored it frozen for a month or so. In fact, I think the flavor improves some with time. Reheat it in a double boiler, to prevent burning. Here's a quick start for a Mole Amarillo: (these proportions will make 2 or 3 cups) (1) 5 costen~o amarillo chiles (2 to 3" long, 3/4 to 1" long, tapering to a point, shiny amber, with a light citrusy flavor) If you can't find these, that's okay, just use the fresh ingredients below. You could use 2 or 3 dried yellow New Mexico chiles, they have a more earthy flavor. Soak in 2 cups boiling water. (2) 15 guero chiles (generic term for pale yellow chiles such as Hungarian wax, bananna, or Santa Fe grande) 3 yellow bell peppers 1/2 lb tomatillos 1 large yellow onion 6 cloves garlic same directions as above, roast the chiles until the skins char, put them in a paper bag, close it && allow the chiles to cool. Peel and seed the chiles. (3) 1/2 small plantain 1 corn tortilla (roast it with the veggies) (4) 1 stick cinnamon 1 tsp allspice 1/8 tsp nutmeg